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The Red Lion Project

12296 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  mehak
Well, I'm about to transform my basic Sub 2k into one with the Red Lion rotating forend, enabling me to have my Red Dot sight and lower forend grip attached on the Picatinny Rails I have for it but now be able to rotate the forend 90 degrees and still be able to fold it as before. But, I have a problem. The instructions tell me in certain places to tighten certain parts to 6ft/lbs and no more. I have the necessary tools to do the job, and I've googled how to apply ft/lbs of torque, but I'm still not sure of how to do so. Can anyone here enlighten me on what it is I'm supposed to do? My project is at a standstill until I clear this hurdle. Also, would you advise on whether I should use Red 271 Loctite for the screws? Thanks in advance.
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They are saying to use a torque wrench so as not to over tighten. Red Loctite is mainly for something more permanent. Blue is better for future removal, or low strength purple.
I see, but how do I measure 6 ft/lbs? Part of the instructions say "then tighten #8 cap screw into corresponding #9 nut until the coupler ears contact (6ft/lbs MAX, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN)".

And thanks about the loctite, I'll invest in blue instead.
Hmmm, what I see costs way too much for my blood, and I don't know anyone that has what will do the job. In the instructions all it said was all I'll need is a 5/32 allen wrench, a T15 torx wrench, and a flathead screwdriver, although a torque wrench was recommended. Guess I'll have to wing it. Wish me luck.
Get an inch pounds wrench. 72 inch pounds is the same as 6 foot pounds . If there is an Autozone automotive parts store near by , they might have one they would rent to you. Might check with other parts stores nearby .
The instructions say a torque wrench is recommended, but they don't specify what size. I wish I wasn't such a dope when it comes to tools.
Ya got a Harbor Freight near you? Pretty cheap to get one there, like $17.
Ho kay, I went to the source and just called Red Lion Precision about just how tight I need the lock nut and cap screw to fit onto the coupler. (I know this doesn't mean much to y'all since you don't know the parts involved, but just trust me.) I started talking to someone but lost the connection. Before I could call back a nice gentleman called me back first. We talked about high tight it needs to be and all it needs is to hold the coupler on so as to align it properly. There are two other lock nuts and cap screws to use on the coupler and it is these that you really tighten down hard. Nice to know you can get good service over the phone from Red Lion Precision. Thumbs up! :)
I decided to delve into removing the cheap plastic front sight on my Sub 2k today, and it was a complete disaster. All the videos and instructions from the Red Lion website make it look quite easy, and I suppose they are, with someone who has half a brain and has done it before. As it is, I have no Dremel tool to saw off the plastic front sight, and after several unsuccessful attempts with the heat gun I decided to use a hack saw and some elbow grease to do it. And I did it well. (A little too well, as you shall see.) Now with the plastic sight off, there was the bushing to remove. The Red Lion instructions pointed out 4 minutes at 800 degrees and the bushing just slid right off. Well, after close to seven minutes at 1700 degrees that damned bushing wasn't moving. I finally gave it one last tug and it barely gave. From then on I was able to work it around and around until it felt like all the loctite was ground away between the bushing and the barrel. But to my horror, I saw striations on the barrel, along with one large silver gouge about 1/4" to 5/16" long and nearly 1/16" wide and maybe 1/32" deep. So I called the company again and was assured that the striations I was looking at were cut into the metal on purpose in order for the loctite to gain a purchase with the metal. He wasn't sure about the silver gouge, though. It wasn't until later that a unsettling idea popped into my head, and upon returning home from doing some chores it was confirmed. When I used the hack saw to take the plastic sight off because the heat gun didn't seem to do the trick, I had cut through the metal of the bushing and into the barrel itself. So now, I don't know if I'm screwed or not by my bonehead decision. I had tried many times to get the sight off with the heat gun with no avail, so all I can tell you is to keep using it until you see the plastic begin to smoke and the surface of the material becomes pockmarked from the heat. Then it should be ready to remove. And the guy at Red Lion said that the bushing will be ready to remove when it starts smoking and the loctite begins to bubble out one or both ends of the bushing. Nice to know now. I'll have to take my Sub 2k to my gunsmith and see if I haven't screwed it up permanently. Laterz.

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Your barrel will be fine. If that area will be visible once you finish the project, a little cold blue should make the scratch less noticeable.

Try not to be so hard on yourself. Most of us have done something similar to a prized possession. Eventually, it will be one of those, "I remember the time . . . "

No sweat! :D
Thanks Tucson. I'll get a flat black touch up pen to cover it up. On we go! :)
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