I've heard guys talking about steel guide rods for a P32 but have never seen one myself. Where can you get a steel guide rod? If anyone has one and is using it, can you tell any difference - maybe in recoil? Thanks for the info.
The guide rod itself has no function in the amount of recoil you feel. It's the spring on the rod that may affect recoil. The issue is one of longevity. Some feel that polymer guide rods are prone to breakage, steel is stronger. I haven't seen a polymer guide rod break but that doesn't mean it never happens... consider this tho. Some people DO report a little nicking here and there. What's hitting it? And how might what is hitting it be affected if it ran into a steel guide rod instead of plastic?
Howdy Tombstone, and welcome!
Midiman pretty much hit it square on the head.
The polymer guide rod is fine, and the metal rod is also fine.
The polymer one is apt to pick up a selection of dings, scratches, and contusions over it's lifetime, but they don't seem to fail!
Metal rods ARE stronger, but functionally aren't necessary. They are, however, easier to reinstall than plastic ones, and are standard equipment on a P-3AT. Kel-Tec sells them for the P-32.
The drawback is that they'll likely wear the guide rod insert in the front of the slide, which is no real big deal for it's easily replaced.
It's up to the user, I guess! Either one works great.
One of the things I have done my whole life is polish. Bike,car and anything I could.
So after I did a F&B to my P-32 and loved the results w/a overtravel stop. It brought to me over 20 P-32's to polish.
One of the P-32's that had the F & B was shot with regularity at the range and the owner would put 100's of rounds through it in a session.
On one occasion the rod expended after many rds. downrange and failed to cycle. There is more to this story.....but it does not really apply. This is what was presented to me from the owner. I do consider the owner a very honest and honorable man...........so, in so many words, I believe him.
Which brings me back to my Question.......Back to top.... :lol:
Well, the point is that the POINT, has now been pointed out to me, and that this person tended to have a lapse in his memory in his assessment of his gun not cycling. Yup, I agree. :roll:.
Just did not think a person asking for some advice as to his cycling problem and stating those characteristics would fabricate........... Sometimes I wonder why I haven't been scammed in my life, sheeesh. :| Will probably take neutral stance as to not lose a regular type customer to my little retirement fund.
have around 900 rnds. thru my p11. last time i cleaned it i noticed a few nicks on my guide rod. lightly sanded it with 600 grit. havn't fired it since but anticipate no problems as i've had none in past. didn't remove an appreciable amount of material. has anyone had a polymer rod break? i always apply a light coating of white lithium grease with my finger tip.
in the p32 did the breakage occur after one session of sustained firing? the most i fire is 100 rnds. at a time over about an hour.
If a metal guide rod caused a failure due to over heating and expanding, I would expect that the polymer one would have failed sooner due to melting....
I don't like the metal ones in my P-11 due to slight frame damage (beating up the pocket that holds the guide rod head) slide wear (the hole the guide rod goes through) and the fact that it constantly beats on the barrel under recoil (at both the head and the tip of the rod). This is because the rod tilts up when you rack the slide in the P-11, still not sure why they just did not make the hole for the guide rod a bit lower in the slide....
The P-32's (and most likely the P-3AT's) guide rod stays much straighter, and has a replaceable recoil spring catch, so I kinda like the metal ones in my P-32.
Also wanted to mention that I would ALWAYS smooth the metal ones, because they are kinda rough, and if just installed (without smoothing) it will add friction, and wear quicker.
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