200 rnds later and the 3at's pin is 'walking' out. A little wear on the frame at the hole on the far side...Bummer. I don't think it's too bad yet. Different pin is in order. Distance from the head to the shoulder where it catches the spring is definitely too long, allowing the pin to 'walk' almost out of the hole.
Spoke too soon
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still don't know why they don't come like this...
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/assemblypin.htm
(make sure you get a spare to work with from KT)
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/assemblypin.htm
(make sure you get a spare to work with from KT)
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64 Posts
I'll probably do mine the next time I strip them, just for preventive measure. I haven't had this problem yet with my 2 p32's and 2 p3at's.
OUCH! I called KT today to order some parts & some extra mags, and the lady there told me that a replacement assembly pin is like $10 or $11!! She suggested that I not buy one, and instead if I have a problem with the pin walking out just call and KT will send me a new one. I'm torn, because I hate to spend $10 on something that I don't *need* to replace now, but the again I hate to think of the time and money wasted if I booger up my frame. Now, that being said, I have serial H0FXX, which appears to have the most current pin and I haven't had any problems, but then I also haven't had an opportunity to do any rapid fire drills with it yet either...
madman,
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
I've YET to replace an assembly pin on either a P-32 or a P-3AT... having never experienced the "walking out" problem. I suspect this is due to my grip style.
So... if it's not been trying to sneak out of it's hole on you, I wouldn't worry about it!
Flyer
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
I've YET to replace an assembly pin on either a P-32 or a P-3AT... having never experienced the "walking out" problem. I suspect this is due to my grip style.
So... if it's not been trying to sneak out of it's hole on you, I wouldn't worry about it!
Flyer
Mad,
Flyer is right about this. My pin walks out just by racking the slide. The dimension from the head of the pin to the 'shoulder' where the spring engages it is too long. There is a good example with pics at ktog. Sorry, I am not computer savvy enough to post a link.
Flyer is right about this. My pin walks out just by racking the slide. The dimension from the head of the pin to the 'shoulder' where the spring engages it is too long. There is a good example with pics at ktog. Sorry, I am not computer savvy enough to post a link.
yeah, I think they are like $10... 
but at the slightest hint of seeing one budge, call KT and tell them it is starting to walk and you will get a new one free.
I did not want to ever see mine move, or have the possibility of a messed up frame, nor down time, so I just spent the $10 and got a spare in case I messed up...
but at the slightest hint of seeing one budge, call KT and tell them it is starting to walk and you will get a new one free. I did not want to ever see mine move, or have the possibility of a messed up frame, nor down time, so I just spent the $10 and got a spare in case I messed up...
Called Keltec today and told them my problem with the assembly pin walking. Guy says they have a new design that they're using and he's sending one to me. I'll try to get a pic posted when it gets here. May need some computer guru help from one of you. Think they caught yz's idea?
My opinion
I'm not a gunsmith, but I have some experience working with metal. In my humble opinion, one cannot afford to let an assembly pin walk, even ONCE. Especially if more rounds are fired after it walks, i.e. before it's shoved back into place.
Wildames says there is already frame wear on the right side of the frame. That also means there is probably some wear on the left side, it's just not as visable.
No matter how hard it's alloyed, there is no contest between aluminum and steel. Steel will eventually win every time. Even if the defective assembly pin is replaced now, the new pin will not be fully supported on the right side in the future due to the existing frame wear. This, in my opinion, will eventually lead to more problems.
That's why I'm so concerned not to EVER let my assembly pin walk, even once. In a rapid fire string it might walk on the first shot and I might not notice the problem until the end of the string, Hence yzguy's grove and screwdriver slot are in order, or at least one of the new style pins even if your pin has never walked before. Ten bucks is cheap insurance. Just my opinion.
Keep shooting
I'm not a gunsmith, but I have some experience working with metal. In my humble opinion, one cannot afford to let an assembly pin walk, even ONCE. Especially if more rounds are fired after it walks, i.e. before it's shoved back into place.
Wildames says there is already frame wear on the right side of the frame. That also means there is probably some wear on the left side, it's just not as visable.
No matter how hard it's alloyed, there is no contest between aluminum and steel. Steel will eventually win every time. Even if the defective assembly pin is replaced now, the new pin will not be fully supported on the right side in the future due to the existing frame wear. This, in my opinion, will eventually lead to more problems.
That's why I'm so concerned not to EVER let my assembly pin walk, even once. In a rapid fire string it might walk on the first shot and I might not notice the problem until the end of the string, Hence yzguy's grove and screwdriver slot are in order, or at least one of the new style pins even if your pin has never walked before. Ten bucks is cheap insurance. Just my opinion.
Keep shooting
I doubt they took it as far as I did requiring you to turn the pin first.....
more likely they are just talking about the one with a more squared off shoulder:
from this thread:
http://www.ktrange.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=553
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122 Posts
wildames
The one in the middle was my original pin and it walked out to the shoulder if I racked it a few times. The pin on the right is much tighter in my gun and does not move when I rack the slide. I am taking it to the range tomorrow to test it during actual firing. I'll report back with my results.
The one in the middle was my original pin and it walked out to the shoulder if I racked it a few times. The pin on the right is much tighter in my gun and does not move when I rack the slide. I am taking it to the range tomorrow to test it during actual firing. I'll report back with my results.
I think the one in the middle was a misscaclulation by KT when they changed the shoulder design, and they put it in the wrong place. If anyones pin pulls out a bit before you feel the resistance of the assembly pin spring GET A NEW PIN FROM KT!!! The one on the right is at least in the correct position and offers better retension of the pin, but still inferior to my mod IMHO....
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122 Posts
Did your new pin look like the one on the right?
If so...I have to push it in then rack the slide a couple times to make it lock onto the spring. It barely engages the spring...they didn't leave any room for varying tolerances...unless mine is the extreme. :shock:
My new one (like the one on the right) did not walk at all after I made sure it was engaged with the spring.
Good luck!
If so...I have to push it in then rack the slide a couple times to make it lock onto the spring. It barely engages the spring...they didn't leave any room for varying tolerances...unless mine is the extreme. :shock:
My new one (like the one on the right) did not walk at all after I made sure it was engaged with the spring.
Good luck!
take a close look at the frame to make sure it is not damaged (if it is that will contribute to making a new pin walk), also check the barrel lug area. Also make sure that the pin is long enough and fully engages the right side of the frame when fully inserted (take the slide off and push the pin in to make sure it goes well into the right side of the frame). A short pin is more likely to walk.
If all is well, then notch the pin and keep an eye on it. If there is some other problem and this is merely a symptom then this notch may not be all you need. I'm kinda surprised that with the new steep shoulder it still walked on you, and wonder if something else is wrong... (hope not)
If all is well, then notch the pin and keep an eye on it. If there is some other problem and this is merely a symptom then this notch may not be all you need. I'm kinda surprised that with the new steep shoulder it still walked on you, and wonder if something else is wrong... (hope not)
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