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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Flyer, you have recommended S&B ball throughout the KTrange for the P32 and I myself have a problem with it in my P32. My P32 will not reliably set every round off and usually takes two hits. I was curious if you had any ideas on how my P32 is failing or could be fixed to work with the S&B ball. I like the hot little ball load,so that is why I was asking. As needed info my P32 has it's slide teflon-coated and I am interested in getting it hard chromed by Kel-tec,so my problem might be cured by that.
 

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Yep, S&B has hard primers.
You CAN cut a coil or two off your firing pin spring, and this should solve the problem. Also, make sure your pin is smoothed very well, and also it's channel.
A few people fear reducing the strength of the spring, but I'm not one of them... it's already stronger than it needs to be, and cutting a couple of coils off, I believe, will have no affect on the pistol's ability to resist drop-fires.
ALL of my P-32s and P-3ATs have reduced-power firing pin springs.
Flyer
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help. Had been debating about the firing pin spring.
 

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With the S&B brass coating on the bullet does anyone notice more "fouling" of the barell? It doesn't seem to bother mine but I do notice I have to work more to clean it.
 

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It's just that brass is harder than copper... so, it's harder to dissolve and remove with the regular cleaning solvents.
Flyer
 

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I am having the same problem occassionally with S&B in my P32, and I suspected the hard primers. How do you remove the firing pin and spring? Of course, the brutually short Kel Tec owners manual does not detail this, so I'm at a bit of a loss. Any help appreciated.
 

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The hex bolt on top of the slide behind the ejection port holds the pin in.
When you remove it, the pin and it's spring are going to try for high orbit - it's best to hold the slide inside a box or paper bag when you remove the bolt, to catch it.
Re-installing is done by using a dowel or some similar object to push the pin/spring back into it's channel with the groove up, and re-tightening the bolt. Tighten the bolt just enough to it bind against the firing pin enough to keep it from moving, then back off half a turn. This takes pressure off the pin but still keeps it in place.
It's pretty easy, actually. Once you've gotten the pin out, polish the bejeebers out of it and the inside of the pin channel, being careful not to alter the shape of the point. Then, lube (very lightly) and re-assemble.
This should take care of your light strikes.
Flyer
 

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Flyer: Thanks for the detailed reply, but it almost sounds like it would simply be easier to find ammo that would cycle more reliably than the S&B. Any suggestions?
 

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It all depends on what you're using it for.
Personally I prefer hollowpoints for the P-32. Among the best are Silvertips and Cor-Bon's load.
As for ball, some of the hottest available now is Fiocchi and Dynamit-Nobel. These are actually BOTH made by D&N, so you may find a box that says "Fiocchi" and "Dynamit-Nobel" on the same box. This is good, hot ammo, similiar to the S&B but with softer primers.
www.ammoman.com stocks it at good prices.
Flyer
 

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Flyer:
Many thanks. I will try out those rounds and use up my S&B as practice ammunition, as it shots quite well. Once I adjusted to the P32 sights, I find it shoots quite well, with minimal recoil. Thanks again.
 

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I also had to clip 2 coils from my p32 fp spring to get it to ignite S&B with 100.0% reliability.

My carry p32 is loaded with S&B FMJ, the only ammo it's ever fired.
 
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