Kel-Tec Forum banner

Improved Ejection & FTE Mod (First Generation ONLY!)

20686 Views 52 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  pocketgun
Hi all.
I originally did this mod to a P-3AT to make it quit banging the tar out of my cases so I'd have less trouble reloading them.
However, I've since come to believe that it drastically reduces failures to eject and other malfunctions, not to mention being easier on your brass.
It involves the upper, inner top of the barrel hood, above the feed ramp. This area, from the factory, has a pretty sharp edge, and is what causes most of the dented brass. As the barrel "tilts" upon unlocking, it levers against the brass, which is still engaged to the extractor. Ouch! Contact and dent.
Since this P-3AT is absolutely flawless with anything I feed it, I believe this is helping it eject properly, too, and also reducing brass to the face.
Here's a look at a factory-new barrel, and the worked one, the factory one on the left:

With Blue Line:

Here's a closeup of the two again, straight from the rear. This time the factory barrel's on the right:

With Blue Line:

Now the tricky part. The metal removed can't extend to the actual end of the barrel, or on the actual sides of the barrel hood. This would affect lockup, NOT good news! Here's a shot of the underside of the hood, and you'll notice it's no longer flat, but rather is "ramped" smoothly, delaying contact with the case until the barrel is unlocked fully:

Yet another look, straight from the side this time:

This is best done with fine needle files, and NOT the Dremel. If you elect to do this mod you'll notice the slide comes back more easily than before; that's because it's not hitting the case with the hood and dragging along the brass before it ejects.
This also removes the downward push given the empty brass as it attempts ejection; after the mod my brass started flying high and to the right, every time.
I hope this is clear... this isn't a mod that's crucial, but it DOES improve your pistol's reliability. Just take your time and shape the inside of the ramp slowly and smoothly, being sure NOT to completely eliminate the flat face at the back of the hood, or the flats on the sides. You'll take PART of them off, but not all.
Oh yeah: for those worried that this will hurt your barrel by being banged with the slide in a now-thinner hood, don't worry. The barrel and slide are stopped by the barrel lug on the assembly pin, and the sides of the barrel take up most of the impact of the slide.
At least, over 200 rounds have gone through THIS barrel with no visible extra wear!
See less See more
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
\"Blazer\" and other \"Mag\" loads

Has anyone ever had a destruct in their P-3AT due to too hot a load? Inquiring as to handloads or big-yellow-box loads. And I remember when the AMT 45-backup first appeared, there were some customized barrels by a couple of makers; any exotic bbl manufacturers for the P-3?? I'd like to have an inch longer bbl for one of my P-3s. Thanks.
A little of every thing

P-3at had a continuing FTE problem so I started some of the sugested mods. I know from trigger jobs you don't make the trigger nice by just grinding on the sear or hammer. You polish and lube every thing that moves, you adjust spring tension and such before you ever take metal off the sear or notch. I followed that line of reasoning on the P3at. Polish chamber, a little chamfer and polish of the barrel hood, feed ramp and rails were done. Then, just a little work on the extractor; a little more hook, a better edge and just a little off the side for a deeper bite. Well I shot it the other day with NO FTE's and it zings the cases about 10 ft. farther behind me than it did. The only downside is now they sting when they bounce of my pretty pink bald head. Oh well...

What size needle file did you use for the mod?
Also what would you say the angle of your cut is?
And last how wide are the ends that are not filed?


He probably used a half round needle file from a set like this:

See less See more
Yup, that's my exact set! Craftsman rules.
The angle is roughly 45 degrees but not exact, since I did it all by "eyeballing" things.
Don't take off more than about half the thickness of the barrel hood - I'd predict pretty serious bashing.
Ejection ?

Flyer: a new-be here. Just finished reading this thread. I have two new P3-AT's. Fired first one last night. Noticed brass marks on top of the slide just behind the ejection port. Also had a few tickle the top of my head. Do you believe your suggested mod would help eliminated the brass banging the top of my slide? Thanks, Knelly
Are your ATs first or second generation?
At any rate... as long as they're running properly, I wouldn't be concerned about a few brass markings. *)
Thanks for Reply

Flyer: yes, they are second gen. Consecutive ser nrs HLF xxx and HLFxx+1. Fired 50 Fed Amer Eagle. Not even a hickcup. Will take awhile to get used to that LONNG trigger travel. Still all in the three major areas on the LE human form outline target.
Thanks again, Knelly
Being new here, (I just bought my first Kel-Tec, a P-32, on Saturday, I hope this isn't too dumb a question but is the mod just for the 380 or is it good for 32s too?
It'll work with both.
On the other hand, your P-32 really isn't likely to need this mod... they're pretty reliable as they come from the factory.
Also, be sure to make your official first post in the thread below:
Last night after several hours of reading this site, I decided I would go for the ramp mod and the hood mod. I broke out the needle files and my dremel and went to work. It looks real nice and polished like a mirror on the ramp and the hood now.

I was having problems with the nose of the bullet getting jammed against the feed ramp and then FTF on the initial breach of a new clip.

I was also seeing that the nose of the bullet was getting jammed against the top right side of the hood when I would clear the chamber of an unfired round.

The ramp and hood file and polish seem to have completely eliminated both of these problems, just playing with it here in the house.

How do I know if mine is a first or second gen.? My serial number is HCxxx.

hemi, go to: [email protected] . then to products, then to p3at. if your gun looks like that on the right side you have a first gen. if not, you have a 2nd.
I think mine is the 1st generation. The exploded drawing in the current downloadable manual is NOT the same as my gun, but the one in the Obsolete manual is.

I'm confused now, because the one in the picture on KT site has the button screw on the right side. Is that a 1st or a 2nd generation.

My gun does not have the button screw. The extractor just has a roll pin and a normal coil spring instead of the flat spring setup.

Your P-3AT is definitely a First Generation. *)
Thanks for the confirmation Flyer!

Well almost a member for 48 hours and yall have convinced me to F&B everything that you can without punching any pins out (I don't have any punches here), do the total rampectomy with a mirror finish, the hood mod with a mirror finish, F&B the only clip I have with me, mirror polish the entire surface of the barrel (other than the tip of the muzzel), I've ordered two finger extensions, I am trying to decide on the best grip to buy, and I'm picking out a new SUB or SU for Christmas.

Forums take all my money.

I've had the gun torn down about 6-7 times today and about 12-13 since I started looking at this forum.

I can't wait till the weekend when I can go shoot.
I've had the gun torn down about 6-7 times today and about 12-13 since I started looking at this forum.
If that's the case you're well on your way to being an expert. *)
I just timed my self. From loaded in the hip pocket to field stripped (removing barrel, ejector, guide, guide rod, and springs) and back to the hip pocket in less than a minute on a good run. lol.
Thanks Flyer for the information on this mod. I am a new 2G AT owner and my new gun is having terrible problems with FTE's. To the point that it is unexceptable for a carry weapon. I will perform the mod on my gun and post my results. :D :)
Note to Newbies:

Note to Newbies:

The barrel in Flyer’s pictures on the first page is a First-Generation P-3AT not a Second-Generation P-3AT.

DO NOT grind the sides of the barrel hood of a SG P-3AT to the angle in these picture as the SG P-3AT barrel hood has square sides not beveled. In fact no grinding at all, just slow filing and stay away from the outer edges.

Wilson – who’s trying to buy used P-3ATs without purchasing new barrels :?
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.