Getting FTE's in 2G 3AT, with very consistant symptoms. SN = HLR ##. Gun has been F&B. Cleaned and re-lubed after first 50 rounds.I fired a second box of UMC and kept close track of jams, one or two per magazine, as follows: When jammed, the slide was always all the way back, trying to grab a new round, so I don't attribute any of it to limp-wristing. Jams were two types.
1.) Case pulled half or 2/3 out, tipped straight up, with the hood pressing on them.
2.) Case pulled straight back, parallel to the barrel, the rim butted into the nose or case of the new round which was trying to move upward.
MAYBE THE HOOD?
On properly extracted cases, there is what looks like a double, pressed-in extractor mark on the FLAT interior of the rim. The brass always flies well up-and-over my head. On the FTE's there is always a single, neat, triangular cut nipped out of the interior EDGE of the rim. This looks like the mark that would occur if the hood knocked the case out of the extractor too early, as show by Midi in one of his posts.
MAYBE THE EXTRACTOR?
On the other hand, there are no heavy, hood crunching marks that others (Flyer?) described on the brass. Apparently the hood can hit the brass hard enough to deform it, but I am not seeing that. I have seen a lot suggestions that "the new extractors" (or to mod it) are all you need to cure extraction problems.
SO NOW WHAT?
After reading most of the posts on the subject, I am wondering "is there is a clear way to distinguish between an extractor or a hood problem?". Or should I just do the hood mod first? Any clues here?
HOOD MOD--If I do a hood mod, will KT freak if I eventually have to send it back under warranty (which I will work like crazy to avoid!)?
EXTRACTOR MOD--I have seen a number of posts on modifying extractors, but they seem to be directed toward the first gen. It seems getting it to go deeper would be tough, because you would have to file around the stop pin and not damage it--but do-able. Has anyone tried to mod the 2nd gen extractors to get a better bite?
MY OWN THOUGHT--I also thought of shimming under the contact point of the extractor spring, to put more pressure on the extractor, just to see the result.
I prefer to cure this without sending it back, but would do so if that were the dominant suggestion, or if there are improvements they still need to make on this particular gun.