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:?: I made it to the range for the second time with my P-3AT and got exactly the same results as the first trip. Two FTE's out of a box of 50. I used Winchester white box the first trip and Winchester WinClean the second trip. I also fired a magazine of Federal JHP with no problems. Questions -
Should I be concerned with the ejection problem with only 106 rounds fired? Should I contact Kel-Tec and request another ejector? Any help will be appreciated as I want to use this for concealed carry.
 

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FTE with Winchester

Did you examine any of the spent cases after the FTE? Especially at the rim of the case for a tear from the extractor.
The only FTE I've had is with Winchester and the extractor had torn thru the rim. All spent Winchester cartridge cases I've examined have a deeper dent from the extractor than other brands. This says the Winchester ammo has softer brass. The FTE's show up after the pistol gets sooty and the chamber gets a little dirty and sticky.

You can do a chamber polish job to improve it. Or you can switch ammo to UMC. The UMC stuff is about the same price, available everywhere, and seems to have harder brass with less extractor deformation. I've never had a FTE with UMC. And don't believe stuff about it's dirtier. No more dirty than any other brand.

Good luck,
og
 

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flick,
I'd just do a chamber polish and not worry about it.
As long as it functions fine with your chosen carry ammo (say the Federal), a malfunction now and then with "generic" ammo is perfectly okay, in my book.
I think the whole reliability issue is getting overblown, a bit... it doesn't have to fire every single brand on the market to be reliable! Just find the round that works perfectly, and stick with it for carry.
Jeff Cooper once said that a handgun that would go 200 rounds without a malfunction was exceptionally reliable for carry. I agree... a chamber polish will likely help with the other brands, and your carry brand will most likely never fail at all.
Flyer
 

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:arrow: Greeetings KTEs : I,m new here,but have P-11 and P3ATs in possession, I am a fan but, I just experienced -all- the nerfarious problems of the P3AT at the range. FTF, FTE,Smileys,etc. I still think this little pocket pistol is great for its intended use! A little f&b will fix the -glitches- and, it still only cost $250 .
 

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New P3AT may have old style extractors.....

I took my new P3AT to the range yesterday after F&B including polishing the chamber..... Had ~7 FTEs with 15 rounds of Winchester White box. :cry:
Kel-Tec told me today: [1] use a 3/32” drift to remove the extractor pin [2] I “should” have had a “new” extractor [with a modified claw and relief to allow the extractor to swing in further to get a better grip on the case] but there was a mix-up in the new and old extractors and some P3ATs left with old extractors. [3] they will send me a "new" extactor. :D
Upon disassembly I found my extractor looks exactly the same as the “before” [unmodified] extractor on the extractor shown on http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/extractor.htm
 

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tlen,
With all due respect, you don't know it's not a limp-wrist problem.
You may or may not "need" a new extractor.
You may NEED to hold your pistol properly.
NONE of my P-3ATs have new extractors.
Flyer
 

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"Limp-wristing"... Who wants to admit to that? So many negative conotations! Let's pool our collective verbal prowess and come up with more socially acceptable terminology. Something a little more macho. "Wrists-challenged" doesn't seem to work either. Any suggestions?
 

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I tried that awhile back, using the Cooper color method.
A "Code Green Grip" is held in the hand, but not ready to shoot.
"Code Yellow" was basically the firing line grip; your pistol is held tight, ready to bring to target.
"Code Orange" was on target, preparing to fire, and
"Code Red" was a TIGHT grip, maintained as you fired.
So...
Hold your pistol in a Code Red grip!
Flyer
 

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Now that sonds MACHO!
 

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Green or Yellow wrist!!!!

I think that Green, Yellow or Orange wristing could be some of the problem but, if the corner of the extractor is tearing a small piece out of the rim it is the extractor's fault. I don't care how tight you hold, if the extractor tears through the rim it is the extractor that is not getting enough bite to pull the case out. I have not had a single problem since I reworked my extractor!!!! P.F.
 

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FYI, I installed a new "modified" extractor from Kel-Tec yesterday and shot 20 rounds today with NO FTEs.... Who said I was "limpwristing" ?? :lol:
 

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It looks like I need to contact Kel-Tec about getting a new extractor.

When I first got my gun I was getting some lim-wristed failures to eject. The case would get caught because it didn't clear the ejection port.

I'm now seeing failures to extract, where the extractor doesn't grab the rim well enough and leaves the brass in the barrel. The brass has always shown some signs of the extractor tearing through it, but had always managed to extract. Now I'm getting one to two failures per box.

I tried switching from winchester to UMC ammo to see if the brass was simply too soft, but it's still doing it.

The recoil spring also seems to be weakening quite a bit. I originally thought that might be part of the problem, but it looks like the brass doesn't even start moving out of the barrel.

I'll have to remove the extractor and make sure there isn't some grit in the way, but if it doesn't look like the extractor is getting a good grip on the brass after that, a new extractor seems to be in order.
 

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The only difference I can see from the “modified” extractor I received from Kel-Tec is a small [1/32-1/16”] chamfer on the lower forward edge of the “claw” which essentially “brakes” the lower corner. This extractor seems to work fine on WW white box and Federal American Eagle cases but there is still evidence of case rim tears.
I think the real fix is something like that described by Pbbbfischer on this site http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/extractor.htm I have modified my original extractor but I’m still having FTEs with it. I relieved the slide stop area by only .009 and think that might not be enough. Be sure to use a 3/32” drift to get the extractor pin out. I use a #41 drill as a temporary extractor pin during reassembly.
I would not think a recoil spring issue would be associated with a failure to extract problem....
 

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Re:

tlen said:
I would not think a recoil spring issue would be associated with a failure to extract problem....
The weaker spring provides less resistence to the slide moving backwards during recoil. That might be the difference between almost tearing through the rim and tearing through the rim.
 
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