Fluff & Buff

good stuff

thanks mag

the above link does not work for me
are there any other links

thanks

GoldenLoki has changed his site around, but I think the info you want is located HERE. He is a member here - you can always PM him and ask. *)

thanks for the info

Update link:

http://goldenloki.com/gunsmith/keltec/fullrp.htm

Thanks, he keeps changing it. He is a member here, BTW.

Are the modifcations recommended for "new guns"?

The second generation P-32's and P3AT's do not seem to require it as much as the first generation guns did. However, it is nothing more than a light polishing of the mating surfaces of the weapon, and can do no harm.

Basically, you are doing what it would take 50 to 100 rounds of ammo to do as far as breaking in the weapon at a much lower cost.

Yeah, the Fluff & Buff is optional; and I wouldn't consider it a modification.

actually... I do some sort of fluff and buff to every new firearm I acquire, and when cleaning recently fired weapons the chambers, feed ramps and rails always get the lion's share of attention (and bolts,carriers on long guns). A little extra polishing of the metal to metal contact surfaces goes a long way towards break-in and reliability of new firearms.


surv

Flitz

Every thing about F&B the author always mentions Flitz polish. Can another type of metal polish, such as Brasso be used?

I don't know if Brasso would do the same thing. Flitz has a nearly abrasive quality to it, though I am sure the Flitz people would cringe and disagree. Flitz is a watery paste, whereas Brasso is a liquid IIRC. I don't think it would work on 4140 steel like Flitz does.

magman454 said:

There seems to be a growing number of new members that are interested in this procedure. Here is the information that you seek.

Follow this link. It takes you to another site, but it has a detailed explanation of the F&B and the procedure on how to do it.

Click to expand...

One thing that I learned to due on the Fluff & Buff that this doesnt show is to take a 22 Caliber or .17 Caliber bronze wire cleaning brush and run it in and out of the firing pin channel and this will smooth it out really good and then take a 22 caliber swab and run it in and out of the channel to remove any dust particals that the brush may have raised.
And when I put the set screw back in I use blue loctite being careful to use just a tiny amount so that it does not seep down into the channel.

I used info from this thread when I cleaned my P3AT this past weekend and even though I only buffed and greased the feed ramp and rails, it made a big difference! I'd already ran about 150 rounds through it prior, but some hollow points (specifically cone shaped rounds) tended to have some problems feeding. After some buffing with 600 grit and applying grease as opposed to oil, everything I fed it ran like butter!!! Thanks guys!

Did anyone save the photos that accompany the DIY Reliability Prep and Lubrication Guide? I was not able to view photos from the web archive method. I knew I should have saved those files as pdfs. Rats! GoldenLoki is leaving the country according to another forum.

GoldenLoki.com

I found it was also important not only to smooth all mating surfaces, but to also run a #20 drill down the firing pin hole, several of my Kel Tecs had burrs in there. I fully accept at this price point some fluff and buff is needed, and after doing so, my P-32s and PF9 are as smooth as anything else out there.
Polishing the feed ramp I found to also be advantageous.

this one still works for me

KTOG.Org - TecWerks - GL's Illustrated Fluff & Buff (fluff and buff) - Page 1 - Kel-Tec Owners Group