yes, but a Simpler idea of the hammer block would not be that hard.... I've already got the idea in my head, just have to work out the details....
First this is how it would work (KT could probably do it a bit better, but for an "add on" thing this is how I'd do it, or at least my latest theory on it). It would ONLY catch the hammer and hold it away from the FP (just barely) if the hammer was pulled back (read, the slide racked) while the trigger is in the fully forward position. This is what happens when you chamber a round. The difference between my idea and the P-32/P-3AT design, is that I would not have the hammer catch on the FP block after every shot, only the initial loading of the pistol (that is when you are carrying it). If the trigger is held back while you rack the slide it would act the same as it does now (the hammer would come to rest on the FP when the slide returns forward). This accomplishes 2 things, 1) makes the design more simple and 2) eliminates the possibility of the "2 reset points" that the P-32/P-3AT have. It would also make the first pull slightly shorter than all the rest (because the hammer would be starting in a "slightly cocked" position), but just a little.
Now on to how (Flyer may actually be able to make this easier than myself

)....
This will require the addition of 4 parts, one hole in the frame, and some hammer modifications (all in all if a drop in kit were to be made, the only modification to a stock P-11 would be to make the hole in the frame, the kit could come with all needed parts and a modified hammer).
Think of how the "half cock" on a 1911 works, especially about how the hammer and sear interact. The hammer would need a notch cut out (I'm thinking somewhere in the lower front of the hammer) to form a ledge for the sear to catch on (maybe not as dramatic of a lip as the "1/2 cock" catch but more than the "full cock" catch). The hole would be forward of the hammer axis hole and a bit lower (or maybe even below, where ever space permits). This hole will be all the way through the frame. A mini sear will go up into the middle of the frame and a pin through the new hole in the frame and the sear. Also a pretty light to medium spring (kinda like the one for a hammer block on the P-32) would put rotational force on the sear pushing it up towards the hammer (clockwise when looking at the right side of the pistol). Of course the new "Catch" on the hammer would be where the mini sear engages it on the bottom, but forward of where the trigger bar currently makes contact.
Now we have a sear that will catch the hammer and hold it off the fp all the time. Now we just need a way to fire it.
Remove a little thickness off of the right side of the hammer. Now make a flat plate with a hole in it to take up this thickness. The shape of this plate will kinda be a spiral, so that when the plate is rotated clockwise (while looking at the right side) it does not touch the sear, but as you twist it counter clockwise it begins to push it away. Then at the bottom of the plate a little piece to hang down and catch the "L" of the trigger bar. This makes it so the trigger bar rotates this new plate counter clockwise on the hammer axis which moves the sear out of the way, but when the trigger is allowed to move forward the sear (because it is under spring pressure) rotates the plate back and allows the sear to engage the hammer.
probably not the clearest thing, but my home computer is down right now, so I can't post stuff on my site to show pics of what I am talking about

maybe Flyer will see what I am talking about.