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Best Tools For Disassembly/Reassembly/Maintenence

2K views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  magman454 
#1 ·
New Member looking for advice. My manual shows the assembly pin being removed with the lip of a cartridge. Is this adequate or is there a better tool ? As to other pins, is a brass drift or a nylon drift preferred ? What diameter ? I've got a brand new gun and I don't want to scratch and gall it because I'm using the wrong tools.
 
#2 ·
use the spent brass cartridge as it's normally available and does no more harm to the finish of the gun that most any other tools. Also, try to maintain some thumb pressure beside the pin hole to prevent "swelling" of the plastic grip at that point. Over time, and many removals of the pin, the grip can swell or expand away from the frame.
 
#3 ·
I find a small screwdriver blade with a very thin blade fits under the assembly pin better for me. I usually hold the pistol with the slide pulled back just 1/8", holding it there with my left hand to take tension off the pin. And like surv says, with a fingernail of the left hand on the side of frame at the pin hole, then the pin can be popped out with the screwdiver blade.

On reassembly, I also pull the slide back a hair and the pin goes in place easier.

I don't recommend messing with the other pins on the frame. You shouldn't need to do that. If something is really wrong, send it to the factory.

FWIW,
og
 
#4 ·
It may just be the thickness of the lip on the cartridge I tried (Federal Hydra-Shok) or the tightness of the fit of the assembly pin in my P3AT, but I could not get the rim lip under the head of the pin, and thus could not get the pin to budge. I ended up using a small screwdriver, which worked fine.
 
#5 ·
Re:

waja said:
It may just be the thickness of the lip on the cartridge I tried (Federal Hydra-Shok) or the tightness of the fit of the assembly pin in my P3AT, but I could not get the rim lip under the head of the pin, and thus could not get the pin to budge. I ended up using a small screwdriver, which worked fine.
With the P-3AT, it's the case mouth of a spent shell, not the rim that should be used.

For dis-assembly, I usually just use whatever is at hand; knives, screwdrivers, shell casings, credit cards, it really doesn't matter much. Just be mindful of the finish, and as stated above, apply pressure to the area surrounding the pin as to prevent pulling the grip away from the frame.

Unless something goes very wrong, you will have no need to remove the frame pins, but if you desire to do so, any type of punch of the proper size will do. I've replaced mine with the metal pins that come with the pocket clip, even though I don't have the clip itself mounted.

For removing the various springs, I use a set of picks that I got from K-Mart that are made by Stanly. They come in a 4 pack. They are very useful, and the handles on them are far superior to the dental picks that some people use for this purpose.

As for cleaning, I soak the barrel in a disposable plastic cup of pure Simple Green for about an hour before cleaning it in the usual manner. This stuff does a very good job of breaking up the carbon, makes cleaning a very easy chore, and is non-toxic and bio-degradable.
 
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