Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1
    Junior KTranger HiFlight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Ft Myers, FL
    Posts
    47

    2nd Gen Firing pin assy?

    I will be removing my FP spring for a trim, and have not been able to find any posts regarding the proper retaining button screw tension. I am assuming from the diagram that the extractor spring button screw also retains the firing pin.

    My question is: Does one tighten the screw until it bottoms snugly, or back it out a bit similar to the set FP screw for the 1st Gen AT?? I am assuming that since it also retains the extractor spring, that it is tightened snugly, but just want to make sure before I begin.
    HiFlight
    Ft Myers, FL
    KelTec P3AT, NAA 380, Seecamp LWS32 , Browning Medalist, Hammerli Trailside, S&W2214, Taurus 4410

  2. #2
    Junior KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    15
    Tighten it "snuggly" if you use a new screw tighten it somewhat "snuggly" and then make sure the firing pin still moves then tighten it "snuggly" and check again, (make sure the screws are the same length first)

    some people use locktite - -I don't

    Most of those people have problems getting the screw back out
    I had over 1100 rounds through my gun before I replaced the original screw with a stainless steel one that I blackened and softened ( to eliminate any firing pin damage) and made the following modification to

    I am experimenting with an idea as follows, I have about 200 rounds through it with my screw being "finger tight" with a bare 1/4" hex bit using no driver

    If the extractor screw (P/N 183) has a flat on the side that the firing pin touches the screw will stay in place?? This would eliminate the need for locktite or tightening the screw excessively and consequently stripping the head.

    With a flat, every cycle of the firing pin should reset the position of the screw.

    I figure the simplest way to do this is when installing a new screw, install the screw as desired, mark the breach side of the screw, remove the screw, grind a small flat on the screw that corresponds to this mark, install the screw as marked.
    I doubt this would work as well with a "factory / soft" screw as it would with a hard button head.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    5,800
    MT Lad,
    You'd better stock up on some Loc-Tite and do more than a bit of finger tightening if you want your pistol to go bang with regularity.
    Flyer

  4. #4
    KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    indiana
    Posts
    141

    Re:

    Quote Originally Posted by MT Lad
    Tighten it "snuggly" if you use a new screw tighten it somewhat "snuggly" and then make sure the firing pin still moves then tighten it "snuggly" and check again, (make sure the screws are the same length first)

    some people use locktite - -I don't

    Most of those people have problems getting the screw back out
    I had over 1100 rounds through my gun before I replaced the original screw with a stainless steel one that I blackened and softened ( to eliminate any firing pin damage) and made the following modification to

    I am experimenting with an idea as follows, I have about 200 rounds through it with my screw being "finger tight" with a bare 1/4" hex bit using no driver

    If the extractor screw (P/N 183) has a flat on the side that the firing pin touches the screw will stay in place?? This would eliminate the need for locktite or tightening the screw excessively and consequently stripping the head.

    With a flat, every cycle of the firing pin should reset the position of the screw.

    I figure the simplest way to do this is when installing a new screw, install the screw as desired, mark the breach side of the screw, remove the screw, grind a small flat on the screw that corresponds to this mark, install the screw as marked.
    I doubt this would work as well with a "factory / soft" screw as it would with a hard button head.
    MTK, U AND I HAVE DISCUSSED THIS BEFORE, KT HAS REALLY SOLVED THEIR PROBLEM of theread damage by lightening up firing pin spirng. To my estimation it looks like it is at leat 5 coils shorter than the normal springs they were using. i had fired well over 1200 rounds through my 380 with this new shorter spring and the standard buttonhead screw and when i took it all apart for inspection, there just was hardly any wear at all, really nothing to be disturbed about IMO. Without locktite, you are headed for fte eventualy. There just isn't enought threads in that slide to really tighten it down--really tight, and with locktite, u can snug it down really good and forget about it. If you need to get it out for any reason, use a heat gun on the slide alittle and that tends to works the locktite loose--alittle. I was and stillnot a big fan of the buttonhead screw but with the shorter springs, wear is gone, and with locktite, there is realy no reason to be taking that assembly apart, ojne can blow clean and lub it without taking it apart...just my opinion here ol buddy...

  5. #5
    Administrator Midiman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,629
    There are about a dozen types/colors of "loctite". Read the various applicatios, I think the "green" will provide you wth enogh hold without needing 3000 degrees to remove it.
    One, two, three, four, five, six, seven... Oswald was a fag. - McManus
    Nolan Web Development
    Guitars and Synths.com


  6. #6
    KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    indiana
    Posts
    141

    Re:

    Quote Originally Posted by Midiman
    There are about a dozen types/colors of "loctite". Read the various applicatios, I think the "green" will provide you wth enogh hold without needing 3000 degrees to remove it.
    is the green alittle softer to remove than the blue locktite? Thge blue works great but I wouldn't mind having alittle wofter locktite..

  7. #7
    Junior KTranger HiFlight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Ft Myers, FL
    Posts
    47
    I have many times used a drop of clear fingernail polish when I was unable to find my thread lockers...It never came loose until I removed the bolt.
    HiFlight
    Ft Myers, FL
    KelTec P3AT, NAA 380, Seecamp LWS32 , Browning Medalist, Hammerli Trailside, S&W2214, Taurus 4410

  8. #8
    KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    indiana
    Posts
    141

    Re:

    Quote Originally Posted by HiFlight
    I have many times used a drop of clear fingernail polish when I was unable to find my thread lockers...It never came loose until I removed the bolt.
    heh great idea, never thought of that.

  9. #9
    Junior KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Foxworth, MS
    Posts
    25
    If I'm not mistaken the green loctite is a "sleeve retainer" type of loctite. Loctite 222 is purple and is made for screws/bolts 1/4" or smaller. Less strength than blue.
    Ed

  10. #10
    Junior KTranger
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    15
    Jocko,
    MTK, U AND I HAVE DISCUSSED THIS BEFORE, KT HAS REALLY SOLVED THEIR PROBLEM of theread damage by lightening up firing pin spirng.
    you are assuming that the thread dammage comes from spring pressure and not recoil pressure.

    Without locktite, you are headed for fte eventually
    REGARDLESS of what you think that is not true, my gun was factory WITHOUT locktite and I NEVER put any locktite on it, I used the SAME screw WITHOUT locktite for about 1100 rounds or so.

    I replaced the screw as described and it STILL DOES NOT have any locktite on it it has NEVER been the cause of a FTE.

    the new screw is still installed and working excellent after over 200 rounds it shows minimal wear and it is blackened stainless steel

    There just isn't enought threads in that slide to really tighten it down--really tight
    jocko, the drill size for a 6-32 screw is about .106", each thread takes up about .031" there are 6-7 threads anchored in the slide so, at 6.5 threads you have a distance of .203" take into account that the minor diameter of the screw is less than the drill size the screw is anchored in 200% of its diameter YOU WILL NOT STRIP THE THREADS no matter how hard you try ( you will strip the head )

    just my opinion....

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Ads

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-23-2009, 01:14 AM
  2. Firing pin
    By bobwhipple in forum SU-16 & 22 Rifles
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-06-2005, 07:37 AM
  3. Firing Pin
    By straub in forum SU-16 & 22 Rifles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-19-2004, 08:30 PM
  4. HELP!!! firing pin
    By garyz in forum SU-16 & 22 Rifles
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 04-16-2004, 11:14 PM
  5. Dry Firing
    By Tangram in forum P-3AT
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-24-2003, 06:20 PM

Search tags for this page

how to adjust keltec firing pin
,
how to remove kel tec p32 firing pin
,

kel tec 380 firing pin

,

kel tec p3at firing pin removal

,

kel tec p3at firing pin replacement video

,
kel-tec p-3at firing pin set ;screw
,
keltec p3at firing pin screw size
,

keltec p3at replace extractor

,
p3at springs firepin
,
p3at-183 extractor screw

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!

» KeltecForum Sponsors

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1